HISTORY OF SHERRY
After
fermentation is complete, sherry is fortified with
brandy. Because the fortification takes place after fermentation, most sherries are initially dry, with any sweetness being added later. In contrast,
port wine (for example) is fortified halfway through its fermentation, which stops the process so that not all of the sugar is turned into alcohol.
Sherry is produced in a variety of styles, ranging from dry, light versions such as
finos to darker and heavier versions known as
olorosos, all made from the
Palomino grape. Sweet
dessert wines are also made, from
Pedro Ximenez or
Moscatel grapes. Sherry is regarded by many wine writers
[3] as "underappreciated"
[4] and a "neglected wine treasure".
[5]
History
Jerez has been a centre of viniculture since wine-making was introduced to Spain by the Phoenicians in 1100 BC. The practice was carried on by the Romans when they took control of Iberia around 200 BC. The Moors conquered the region in AD 711 and introduced distillation, which led to the development of brandy and fortified wine.
During the Moorish period, the town was called Sherish (a transliteration of the Arabic شريش), from which both Sherry and Jerez are derived. Wines similar in style to sherry have traditionally been made in the city of Shiraz in mid-southern Iran, but it is thought unlikely that the name derives from there.[6][7]
Wine production continued through five centuries of Arab Empire's rule. In 966, Al-Hakam II, the second Caliph of Córdoba, ordered the destruction of the vineyards, but the inhabitants of Jerez appealed on the grounds that the vineyards also produced raisins to feed the empire's soldiers, and the Caliph spared two-thirds of the vineyards.
In 1264 Alfonso X of Castile took the city and it was renamed Xeres. (Over time the spelling was adjusted to Xerez, and finally Jerez). From this point on, the production of sherry and its export throughout Europe increased significantly. By the end of the 16th century, sherry had a reputation in Europe as the world's finest wine.
Christopher Columbus, brought sherry on his voyage to the New World and when Ferdinand Magellan prepared to sail around the world in 1519, he spent more on sherry than on weapons.
Sherry wine became very popular in Great Britain, especially after Francis Drake sacked Cadiz in 1587. At that time Cadiz was one of the most important Spanish sea ports, and Spain was preparing an armada there to invade England. Among the spoils Drake brought back after destroying the fleet were 2,900 barrels of sherry that had been on shore waiting to be loaded aboard Spanish ships.[8] This helped to popularize sherry in the British Isles[9].
Because sherry was a major wine export to the United Kingdom, many English companies and styles developed. Many of the Jerez cellars were founded by British families.
In 1894 the Jerez region was devastated by the insect phylloxera. Whereas larger vineyards were replanted with resistant vines, most smaller producers were unable to fight the infestation and abandoned their vineyards entirely.[10]
Production
Climate
The Jerez district has a predictable climate, with approximately 70 days of rainfall and almost 300 days of sun per year. The rain mostly falls between the months of October and May, averaging 600 l/m². The summer is dry and hot, with temperatures as high as 40 °C (104 °F), but winds from the ocean bring moisture to the vineyards in the early morning and the clays in the soil retain water below the surface. The average temperature across the year is approximately 18 °C (64 °F).
Soil
There are three
types of soil in the Jerez district for growing the grapes for Sherry:
[12]
- Albariza: the lightest soil, almost white, and best for growing Palomino grapes. It is approximately 40-50 per cent chalk, the rest being a blend of limestone, clay and sand. Albariza preserves moisture well during the hot summer months.
- Barros: a dark brown soil, 10 per cent chalk with a high clay content.
- Arenas: a yellowish soil, also 10 per cent chalk but with a high sand content.
The
albariza soil is the best for growing the Palomino grape, and by law 40 per cent of the grapes making up a Sherry must come from
albariza soil. The
barros and
arenas soil are mostly used for Pedro Ximénez and Moscatel grapes.
The benefits of the
albariza soil is that it can reflect sunlight back up to the vine, aiding it in
photosynthesis. The nature of the soil is very absorbent and compact so that it can retain and maximize the use of the little rainfall that the Jerez region receives.
[12]
Grapes
Before the
phylloxera infestation in 1894, there were estimated to be over 100
[13] varieties of grape used in Spain for the production of Sherry, but now there are only three white grapes grown for Sherry-making:
- Palomino: the dominant grape used for the dry sherries. Approximately 90 per cent of the grapes grown for Sherry are Palomino. As varietal table wine, the Palomino grape produces a wine of very bland and neutral characteristics. This neutrality is actually what makes Palomino an ideal grape because it is so easily enhanced by the Sherry winemaking style.[12]
- Pedro Ximénez: used to produce sweet wines. When harvested these grapes are typically dried in the sun for two days to concentrate their sugars.
- Moscatel: used similarly to Pedro Ximénez, but it is less common.
Sherry-style wines made in other countries often use other grape varieties.
Fermentation
The Palomino grapes are harvested in early September, and pressed lightly to extract the
must. The must from the first pressing, the
primera yema, is used to produce Fino and Manzanilla and the must from the second pressing, the
segunda yema will be used for Oloroso ; the product of additional pressings is used for lesser wines, distillation and
vinegar. The must is then fermented in stainless steel vats until the end of November, producing a dry white wine with 11-12 percent alcohol content.
Fortification
Immediately after fermentation, the wine is sampled and the first classification is performed. The casks are marked with the following symbols according to the potential of the wine:
| / | a single stroke indicates a wine with the finest flavour and aroma, suitable for fino or amontillado. These wines are fortified to about 15 percent alcohol to allow the growth of flor. |
|---|
| /. | a single stroke with a dot indicates a heavier, more full-bodied wine. These wines are fortified to about 17.5 percent alcohol to prevent the growth of flor, and the wines are aged oxidatively to produce oloroso. |
|---|
| // | a double stroke indicates a wine which will be allowed to develop further before determining whether to use the wine for amontillado or oloroso. These wines are fortified to about 15 percent alcohol. |
|---|
| /// | a triple stroke indicates a wine that has developed poorly, and will be distilled. |
|---|
The Sherry is
fortified using
destilado, made by distilling wine, usually from
La Mancha. The distilled spirit is first mixed with mature Sherry to make a 50/50 blend known as
mitad y mitad (half and half), and then the
mitad y mitad is mixed with the younger Sherry to the proper proportions. This two-stage procedure is performed so the strong alcohol will not shock the young Sherry and spoil it.
Aging
The fortified wine is stored in 500-litre casks that are made of North American
oak, which is less porous than French or Spanish oak. The casks, or butts, are filled five-sixths full, leaving "the space of two fists" empty at the top to allow
flor to develop on top of the wine.
Sherry is then aged in the
solera system where new wine is put into
wine barrels at the beginning of a series of three to nine barrels. Periodically, a portion of the wine in a barrel is moved into the next barrel down, using tools called the
canoa (canoe) and
rociador (sprinkler) to move the wine gently and avoid damaging the layer of flor in each barrel. At the end of the series only a portion of the final barrel is bottled and sold. Depending on the type of wine, the portion moved may be between five and thirty percent of each barrel. This process is called "running the scales" because each barrel in the series is called a scale.
So the age of the youngest wine going into the bottle is determined by the number of barrels in the series, and every bottle also contains some much older wine. Sherry is aged in the solera for a minimum of 3 years.
Storing and drinking
Once bottled, sherry does not benefit from further aging and may be consumed immediately, though the sherries that have been aged oxidatively may be stored for years without losing their flavor. Bottles should be stored upright to minimize the wine's exposed surface area. As with other wines, sherry should be stored in a cool, dark place.
Fino and Manzanilla are the most fragile types of sherry and should usually be drunk soon after opening. In Spain, finos are often sold in half bottles, with any remaining wine being thrown out if it is not drunk the same day it is opened.
[14] Amontillados and olorosos will keep for longer, while sweeter versions such as PX, and blended cream Sherries, are able to last several weeks or even months after opening, since the sugar content acts as a preservative.
Sherry is traditionally drunk from a
copita, a special tulip-shaped Sherry glass. Sampling wine directly from a Sherry butt may be performed with characteristic flourish by a
venenciador, named after the special cup (the
venencia) traditionally made of
silver and fastened to a long
whalebone handle. The cup, narrow enough to pass though the bung hole, withdraws a measure of sherry which is then ceremoniously poured from head height into a
copita held in the other hand.
[15]
Recently, young people drink it mixed with lemonade soft-drink and ice. It is called
Rebujito, although it was popular in the
Victorian age, known as
sherry-cobbler.
[16]
A liqueur is an alcoholic beverage that has been flavored with fruit, herbs, nuts, spices, flowers, or cream and bottled with added sugar. Liqueurs are typically quite sweet; they are usually not aged for long but may have resting periods during their production to allow flavors to marry.
INTRODUCTION 
